surf's up

 

Bud taught himself to surf when we moved to Santa Monica. He fell in love with it and I'd say it's become just about the best part of his day. Some mornings he is gone before the sun comes up, waiting in our VW bus at Malibu with a thermos of coffee for the first break of daylight. Before sunset you can sometimes see him walking down our street with his board, hoping to catch a few more waves before the day is over.

Not long ago he came across a small camera that discreetly attaches to his board and records his outings. It's been a lot of fun for me to watch these "dailies." Often they feature pods of dolphins, sometimes a few leopard sharks (pretty harmless, I'm told) and more than once, a curious sea lion that shadowed him a little too closely for his liking. But I think the most impressive video was when someone's board went hurling through the air and he caught it mid surf before it clobbered him, seamlessly tossed it back to the owner, and finished riding his wave. 

Smooth.

Comments

[Monica {bohemian twilight}]

how cool, didn't know one could pop a camera on a surfboard. that's nice to feel more part of his thing, by viewing afterwards.

[Stephanie]

I imagined you somehow taking these pictures and wondered if you were on a surfboard of your very own! These are so cool...the first one with all of the light is just stunning! What a wonderful way to chronicle himself and the world around him. :)

[Elizabeth]

That is so very very cool! Especially where it looks like he's holding onto the wall of water. It makes me want to learn to surf. (I took a surfing class once; let's just say I wasn't a natural. ;)

[Michelle L]

This made my evening, thanks to you and Bud for sharing!!!

[Kathryn Dyche Dechairo]

Cool, great shots.

[kelly barton]

i love it!
at first i had a vision of you
sitting on the end of his board
snapping away. hahahahaha.
that cracks me up. sometimes
i am so "indiana"

i love this story.

[lovely and imperfect]

Bud and I thank you for your comments! I wasn't a natural at surfing either Elizabeth...I do plan to give stand up paddleboarding a try though and I'll let you know how it goes. :)

[brooke]

Oh, these photos are amazing!!! I love photographing in water. :)